Fashion

Easy Pull-On Cuffed Pants Part 3

If you have been following along, you know that I just made cuffed pants that I can’t get my feet through.  Sigh.

If I had gone right back in and tried to fix it, it might have been a real mess.  I needed to sleep on it for a few days.  So here we are, a week later, and have I arrived at a solution I am happy with.

newcuffoldcuff
Problem on the bottom.  Solution on the top.

I didn’t have very much scrap, but I had enough to make a little bit of bias tape.  I cut the leg at the inside seam, going from the bottom to just above the cuff. Carefully, I pinned and sewed double-folded bias around the cut area. Once again, working in this area was pretty fiddly, since it was small, multi-layered and the other side of the cuff kept slipping under the needle.  I powered through though.  The next step was a lot easier.

I cut short lengths of the waistband elastic and pinned them horizontally one on top of the other on the inside of the new opening.  I sewed one side down, but left the other pinned.  Before sewing the other side, I tested for fit.  (See, I learned something!) It fit, I sewed the other side down and repeated the process with the other pant leg.

Finally, my “easy” pants were done!

burdapant3
That’s what I call high-waisted!

For the most part, I like these pants.  They are very high waisted. Even when worn at the natural waist, the crotch is on the low side.  Still, since I’m probably only ever going to wear them with an untucked shirt, they should be fine.  The legs and cuffs look good and that’s what the world will see.

I always like to think of what else I could do with my patterns after trying them out. Assuming I plan the cuffs better, this really is an easy, versatile pattern. Burda Style shows them in dressy, luxe fabrics – even sequins.  They even have a little article on how to put together outfits with sequined pants, which is something I never would have considered before. Any drapable fabric thin enough to stand up to a 2 to 1 gather at the waist would work. So, I would consider anything from silks and sequins to jerseys and french terry fair game.

burdapant2
Proof I can put my feet through the cuff

Thanks for reading all about my casual clothing reboot.  Coming soon: sewing with spandex, using the serger for something other than seams and more!

Fashion

Easy Pull-On Cuffed Pants Part 2

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Line drawing from Burda Style for pattern 114A/B

I had enough soft gray fabric left from a different pair of pants to use for these.  I knew it draped well and was machine washable. The only thing I had to buy was wide black elastic (1 1/4″) for the waistband.

Part of the pockets show on the front, so they have to be in the main pants fabric.  But the inside doesn’t show, so I cut those pieces from a scrap of cute cotton voile from my leftovers pile.  Using a lightweight fabric decreases the pockets’ bulk and gives whoever does the laundry (me) a little surprise pop of color.

One of this design’s unusual features is a raw, uncased elastic waistband. I have seen the exact same elastic used in ready-to-wear cinch belts, so it makes sense that it would look good exposed.

I was really hoping I could figure out how to use the serger to apply the elastic and do the gathering in one step. Try as I might, I couldn’t figure out a way.  When I really thought about it, I realized that it would have to be done in multiple steps, if at all. I did make a nice test swatch attaching the elastic to the fabric with right sides together.  That would be a great treatment for a full, puffy skirt. Unfortunately, I was trying to apply the elastic on top, overlapping the fabric, not turned to the inside.  Trying to stretch the elastic the necessary 2×1 ratio was just too difficult for something that should have been simple.

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Closed side pocket
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Pop of pink in pocket lining

I ended up just sewing it on using a zig-zag stitch on my regular machine, stretching as I went.  Then I cleaned up the messy bulk on the inside with a three thread overlock.

I went back to my regular sewing machine to do the gathering on the cuffs.  Applying the cuffs was a fussy process, since the circumference was smaller than my free arm and the fabric had no stretch.  I sewed the cuff to itself no less than three times!  While it was many more steps than I had hoped, the results looked good.

Then I tried to put them on.

Aaaargh!

I couldn’t get my feet through the cuffs!

After a few deep breaths, I checked my work.  I did indeed follow the directions as written in the magazine.  The cuff pieces were the right size.  I don’t know if this is a known problem with the pattern, or whether I missed something.  Either way, the pants needed work if they were going to be wearable.

It looks like this is going to be a three part post.  Oh, well.  It happens to everyone, right?

See Part 1 Here.